BY DAVE KELLY
If you associate Tallahassee with just two things – politics and college football - then a trip to our state’s capital city just might open your eyes to its unexpected charm.
Tallahassee is near the middle of Florida’s Panhandle, far away from the touristy beaches and crowded theme parks that permeate the state’s lower peninsula. Richly steeped in gently rolling hills, shady oak hammocks, and enchanting Southern hospitality, it is a unique combination of charming Old Florida and active outdoor lifestyle that invited us to spend some quality time there.
For accommodations, we chose the historic Hotel Duval. Centrally located in the bustling but accessible downtown area of the city and a part of Marriott Bonvoy’s prestigious Autograph Collection, this boutique hotel reflects the charm and history of the city. Originally built in 1951, Hotel Duval is a refreshing blend of contemporary/comfortable design and alluring historic grace.
We enjoyed the spacious upscale rooms at Hotel Duval, which included expansive bathrooms with suspended glass vanities and pebbled spa shower floors under gentle rain showerheads. Their green-minded guestroom footprint encourages recycling, and there are even electric car charging stations for guest use.
The hotel’s food and drink options were upscale and delicious. We visited LeRoc Bistro in the lobby for Starbucks and snacks throughout the day, then hit up Shula's 347 Grill where we feasted on their incredible Shula Cut steaks.
We finished off more than one evening at the Level 8 Lounge on the rooftop, sipping exotic cocktails while taking in a panoramic view of the city skyline.
History and Art
Early on our second morning, we headed out to Maclay Gardens, a 1,176-acre Florida State Park, botanical garden, and historic site located just north of town. We traveled a brick walkway that leads to the lush 28-acre ornamental gardens that were first planted a hundred years ago by Alfred and Louise Maclay on the property of their winter home. The area also features a secret garden, reflection pool, and a smaller walled garden, replete with hundreds of blooming camellias and azaleas.
We saw dozens of other outdoor enthusiasts enjoying swimming, canoeing, and kayaking on serene Lake Hall, where picnic tables and pavilions line the shore. Walking and hiking buffs also take advantage of paths that wind through the adjacent woods. There are even equestrian trails. It was delightful to find such luxuriant open spaces mere minutes from the city.
That afternoon, we were excited to meet one of our favorite artists, Dean Gioia, a Tallahassee painter and writer with a national reputation who has spent five decades capturing southern landscapes and displaying them on canvas and in print. His works tend to focus on the play of light and how it can affect our perspective on moments in time.
The inspiration for his work is most often the local scenery, focusing on the natural features of the region and its people. Locations such as St. Marks, a coastal Apalachee Bay community just south of town, provide the vision for works like Light at St. Marks, while other regional locations have inspired such masterpieces as Canopy Light and Summer Twilight, Poseys.
“I am here to absorb, reflect and emote,” Dean says. “Love moves my hand.”
His two published books, “Turn of Light” and “Illuminated”, illustrate his passion by featuring dozens of his works.
Dean works out of a downstairs workshop in his north Tallahassee home, showcasing his art in gallery format on walls throughout the house. On our visit, we were delighted to experience his creations in person, noting the incredible detail as we watched the light dance throughout his paintings, lending them an ethereal presence.
Blue Water and the Black Lagoon
The following day, it was up and out early exploring Edward Ball Wakulla Springs State Park, the world’s largest freshwater spring, pushing out over 200 million gallons of fresh 70-degree water every day. The strikingly sapphire blue water of the springs has carved out almost 12 miles of connected underground conduits in the limestone and is home to alligators, manatees, and diverse avian wildlife that can be viewed from the onsite riverboat or the historic riverside diving platform.
The scenic Jungle Cruise Tour down the Wakulla River departs every hour, taking visitors on a ranger-led, 45-minute wildlife viewing trip. We hopped on board for the 2-mile loop downstream and back and were amazed to see so much activity on the serene water. Ibis, cormorants, and herons roosted in bald cypress trees, and nests of baby alligators were guarded by attentive and wary moms.
Our guide told us stories about the history of the springs, including many centering on the movie industry in the 1930’s, 40’s, and 50’s. Many “Tarzan” movies were filmed here, for instance, as well as three from the “Creature of the Black Lagoon” series. In fact, part-time Wakulla Springs lifeguard Ricou Browning stepped in when asked and played the underwater role of the iconic Gill-man in three films, reportedly holding his breath up to four minutes. Mr. Browning just died this year at age 93.
The central land feature of Edward Ball Wakulla Springs State Park is The Lodge at Wakulla Springs, a 27-room grand hotel built almost 100 years ago by financier Edward Ball. He styled the hotel to reflect the serenity of what he considered to be the most peaceful place he had ever seen. He imported quality marble and tile, hired artisans and craftsmen to work iron and stone, creating an entirely unique retreat. In fact, the world’s longest marble bar, measuring a whopping 70 feet, is still in the hotel.
The Lodge at Wakulla Springs is also home to the oldest working elevator in Florida, which is still in use today. Also dominating this space is a huge 16-foot ceiling featuring intricate decorative painting of local scenes overlaid on the hand-hewn cypress panels.
It is breathtaking to behold.
Photo Courtesy Visit Tallahassee
Tastes of Tallahassee
During our stay in Tallahassee, we experienced restaurants and pubs that exemplify the core values and tastes of Florida Country Magazine readers.
Catalina Café – Check out this mom-and-pop-style coffee house on Gaines Street downtown. Named after the owners’ daughter, it features fresh-roasted hot and cold coffee and lattes with breakfast and lunch sandwiches in a casual hip setting.
Bar 1903 – Located in the historic Walker Library building downtown and featuring a cocktail menu that spans over 160 years, Bar 1903 pushes the boundaries of the cocktail experience. Named for the year the building was constructed, this cozy bar combines the traditional with the eclectic, with creative bartenders crafting tasty concoctions that we enjoyed with their small fare menu.
Jeri’s at Market Plaza – Seasoned event planner Jeri Madden presides over two unique kitchens in the Tallahassee area, serving “Love on a Plate” to locals daily for years. Her restaurant and catering company feature farm-to-table, high-quality ingredients, with their chef creating dishes that ignite the palate. Our pressed sandwiches and the Gouda Grits & Shrimp were delicious, made all the better by our servers’ sincere attitudes of happiness and love.
Backwoods Crossing – Brothers Tyler and Jesse Rice fill their menus with locally caught or sourced ingredients such as soft-shell crabs, sausage, duck, and blueberries cultivated from their own onsite gardens. Their Garden Creations menu changes every week as the best local producers supply their seasonal foods and their three-acre farmette yields its quality fruits and vegetables. They even sport a chicken coop on the backside of the property, where their brood of hens produces 18,000 eggs a year, helping The Crossing on their quest to becoming a self-sufficient restaurant. The Jalapeño Catfish Bites over cheese grits and the Crab Cake Stack were Southern perfection on a plate.
The Huntsman – Creating and embracing a “field & stream-to-table” philosophy in the heart of downtown Tallahassee, The Huntsman works with multiple farms that supply ethically-sourced game animals and incorporates them into dishes that feature local seasonal ingredients. We enjoyed their signature dishes known as “Guided Expeditions” - Hunter or Gatherer 5-course tasting menus that change daily, where the Chef’s wood-fired carnivorous experience or seasonal vegan fare pair with locally crafted cocktails to provide a personalized dining affair. Offerings such as the Asian-inspired Elk Tartare and the hearty cut of bison rib-eye showcase their exceptional approach to sustainable fine dining.
Ready for some unexpected adventure? Head to Tallahassee – you are sure to find it.
ROUNDUP
Hotel Duval
415 N Monroe St, Tallahassee, FL 32301
(850) 224-6000
Maclay Gardens
3540 Thomasville Rd, Tallahassee, FL 32309
(850) 487-4556
www.floridastateparks.org/MaclayGardens
Dean Gioia
(850) 933-0124
Edward Ball Wakulla Springs State Park
465 Wakulla Park Dr, Wakulla Springs, FL 32327
(850) 561-7276
www.floridastateparks.org/WakullaSprings
Tallahassee Food and Drink
Catalina Café
www.facebook.com/CatalinaCafeTally
Bar 1903
Jeri’s at Market Plaza
Backwoods Crossing
The Huntsman